Sicily Guide Part 2: Syracuse and the Southeast
Including a convertible fiat, Italian supermarkets and Airbnb cooking in the countryside
A Sicilian road trip
After a short stint in the northwest (see Sicily Guide Part 1), it was time to drive across the island towards the Southeast. If you’re planning a trip to Sicily, hiring a car opens up a lot more of the island and means you can stop for macchiatos and sugar coated donuts along the way. We had a convertible fiat and could not have asked for a more perfect Sicilian road trip companion.
This four hour drive revealed the island’s striking contrasts. We started the day in Scopello, a crisp and quiet morning. Along the way, we stopped in Enna, a tiny town perched atop a mountain, where we sipped espresso as a thick cloud drifted through. By afternoon, we were in buzzing Ortigia, sitting in a hot piazza beneath Baroque façades. It felt like we had been part of three different countries in one day.
All about Ortigia
Once we got to Ortigia, we spent a couple of nights here before moving into a villa in the countryside. Ortigia is a compact island in the city of Syracuse and home to Greek temples, medieval churches, and Baroque palaces all within a few minutes’ walk. Below is a list of spots we loved in Ortigia.
Walk the parameter of the island, stopping for a dip at the swimming spots on the rocks along the Lungomare. The best swimming spot by far is by Forte Vigliena.
Explore The Ortigia Street Market. At the end of the market, stop by the infamous Caseificio Borderi for a very good panini.
An afternoon gelato or granita from hole-in-wall Gelateria Gusto to escape the heat. Pistachio flavour obviously.
A glass of Sicilian wine (Mount Etna (Mode)) at Enoteca Solaria before dinner
A aperitiv with a view at Colapesce
A bowl of homemade pasta from Casa Trimachi - a farm to table restaurant located in a quiet alley. Shout out to the octopus ragu and the pasta alla norma covered in grated salted ricotta.
Verga Courtyard - A medieval courtyard-turned aperitivo bar for a final drink or cocktail of the night.
Next stop: villa in the countryside
We got back on the road in the convertible fiat, this time heading inland towards the Baroque countryside. This region is known for towns like Noto, Modica, and Ragusa Ibla which were all rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake in a theatrical, expressive style (known as Baroque architecture).
On the way, we stopped for a swim and lunch at the most beautiful beach Spiagga di Calamosche. Park nearby the entrance, pay a few euros to enter the national park and then walk about 25 mins to get to the beach from there. After a swim, you can have some fresh fruit and juices shaded by a citrus orchard at Oasi della frutta, or at one of the lunch spots near the car park like Agriturismo/Restaurant Calamosche. For a more restaurant style meal, drive about 10 mins to Agriturismo il Bagl.
Our Villa Cutalia in A.s.i., was a 1930s time capsule, with all the original furniture and interiors of the manor house still in use. We made good use of both the courtyard dining area under an olive tree and the terrace overlooking the countryside, perfect for aperitivo hour.
Modica
Casa Del Formaggio - deli for salami and cheese browsing
Accursio Radici - for delicious meal and funky vintage interiors
Gli Orti di San Giorgio for a glas of vermut and a view of the stunning architecture of Modica
Antica Dolceria Bonajuto - for a cannoli post lunch
Ragusa
Stroll through the windy, steep streets of Ragusa. Make sure to stop at the most iconic viewpoint of Ragusa Ibla located along Corso Mazzini, just below the Church of Santa Maria delle Scale. From this small terrace, you get a postcard-perfect view of the blue dome of Santa Maria dell’Itria framed by layers of limestone buildings.
Lunch at La Taverna Del Lupo or Trattoria La Bettola
Stroll around Giardino Ibleo with views over the valley
Other activities in the area
Wine tasting and winery tour at Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti - book a tour!
Dip in the ocean at Spiaggia di Marina Di Ragusa followed by the best pistachio granita and brioche from Caffe delle Rose
Cooking at an airbnb in Sicily
^Probably my favourite thing to on this planet…leave me alone in an Italian supermarket and you might never see me again. This was one of the main reasons I felt okay about booking an isolated countryside villa. With supermarkets only a 10-15 minute drive away, we had access to some of the best produce which we could make the most of at home. Think 1kg bad of Sicilian olives for 4 euros. 7 different types of fresh mozzarella. Local olive oil that is worth stocking up on to bring home. A whole entire aisle for pasta. An entire aisle.
Some of the things we made in our airbnb kitchen/courtyard bbq included:
A pasta salad with roasted eggplant, sundried tomato, fresh tomato, red onion, fresh rocket
Radichio, fennel, mint, olive, orange, almond salad with lots of olive oil, salt and chilli flakes. A recreation of the salad I had eaten at a restaurant the day before.
Two big rare t-bone steaks on the bbq
Stracciatella with white peaches, olive oil, flaky salt and pistachios
A version of a caponata with bbq roasted capsicum and eggplant, marinated in red wine vinegar, fresh oregano and capers
All meals started with a obligatory campari spritz, potato crisps and olives
I realised it was time to return when I used the last drop of Sicilian olive oil. Ciao for now beautiful Sicily.
