Making the most of Morocco
A guide to the city, mountains, desert and coast
Only 3.5 hours from London and you’re in Northern Africa — a completely different world. Morocco is culturally rich, known for its mix of Arab, Berber, Jewish, and European influences. It’s one of those places everyone should try to visit at least once. Morocco’s diverse landscape includes cities, deserts, mountains, and beaches — all within driving distance.
This guide covers where to eat and what to do in Marrakech (city), Agafay (desert), the Atlas Mountains, and Essaouira (coast).
Marrakech
Marrakech is a city full of energy, colour and contrasts - ancient and modern living side by side. It’s worth having a couple of nights here before venturing either to the mountains, the desert or the beach. You could cover most of the below in 3-4 days.
Stay
It’s definitely worth staying in a riad (traditional houses with courtyards) to escape the hustle and bustle at the end of the day. We loved Riad Jardin secret.
Eat
The food in Morocco naturally reflects its cultural influences. Tagine and couscous from the Berbers, spices like cinnamon, saffron, cumin and ginger from the Arabs, olives and citrus from the Spanish and pastries from France. Our daily diet consisted of Mint tea, msaman (Moroccan crepe), dates, oranges with cinnamon and some form of tagine and we weren’t mad about it. There is a real mix between modern and traditional Moroccan restaurants in Marrakech and it’s worth trying both.
Sahbi Sahbi - entirely operated by women, go here for a modern take on the traditional Moroccan cuisine, cooked in an open kitchen at the centre of the restaurant. $$
Nomad - have a rooftop lunch here, overlooking the Medina. $$
Cafe des Despeice - busy cafe overlooking the Medina, go here for breakfast or brunch. $
Terasse Bakchich - tucked away in a smokey alley in the Medina, climb up some stairs to the terrace and eat skewers, lamb tangia and vegetable couscous. $
Lamb from Mechoui alley - whole lamb slow roasted underground in clay ovens without any seasoning and served with bread, cumin and salt for dipping. One to experience! $
La famille - another female run business with a beautiful garden eating area and vegetarian menu, go for lunch. $
El Fenn - beautifully designed hotel and restaurant, go for a rooftop cocktail before dinner. $$
Comptoir Darna - for a show and dinner featuring Moroccan music and dancing. $$
Jazz cafe La Pergola - for some after dinner jazz and drinks. $
Hyuna House Cafe - Japanese coffee house for a decent flat white and matcha. $
Do
Wander the souks - spend a morning exploring/getting lost in the maze of alleys. Go at around 10am as the stalls are just opening before it gets super crowded. I went thinking I wouldn’t buy anything but ended up bringing home spices, argon oil, hand blown glassware, ceramics from the Sahara and multiple leather bags - so don’t be naive like me! We were given advice to only ever pay 50-60% of the initial price offered to you. I’m not a master of negotiation and sometimes paid slightly more (but it’s all beautiful and all relatively cheap regardless).
Secret Jardin - go in the morning for fewer crowds and beautiful light. This garden is one of the more stunning things we saw in Morocco. The green tiles are my muse.
Bahia Palace - very busy but worth visiting as the tiling, expansive courtyards and architecture are impressive. Buy a ticket when you get there.
Jardin Majorelle - a beautiful residence previously occupied by Yves Saint Laurent but now just open for people to visit and admire the vibrant blue buildings and surrounding gardens of cacti, bamboo and palms. You need to pre book this one online at least a few days in advance, try and get the first slot of the day for smaller crowds.
Jemaa el-Fnaa - main square in the Medina with snake charmers, food stalls and musicians - especially lively at night.
Get a city tour - helpful to learn about the history of Marrakech and see some key monuments like the Koutoubia mosque.
Get a Hammam - it’s a must experience and there are plenty in the Medina.
Venture out to Farasha Farmhouse for a day relaxing day buy the pool and a farm to table lunch with a day pass.
Atlas Mountains
A short and scenic drive from Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains are a peaceful escape from the intensity of the Medina. If you have a car, stop at one of the many coffee trucks on the side of the road on your way into the mountains and enjoy a 1 dollar coffee perched on a stool.
We had two nights at Berber Family Lodge which we loved. Some of the walls were made of mud and grass, the dinners were candlelit and the views spectacular.
A guided hike
The Berber Family Lodge organised a 3-4 hr guided hike for us through Imlil and up into the surrounding mountains and villages, but you can also go to Imlil where there are lots of guides ready to take you. It was a particularly beautiful time of year to hike as all the bright red poppies, purple iris, yellow wild flowers and white apple blossoms lined the trails. We walked through apple orchards, between rows of walnut trees, to a waterfall and into small Berber villages, the whole time with a panoramic view of the atlas mountain range. Our guide, Hassan welcomed us into his home where we ate a delicious home cooked lunch including a Berber omelette, tagine and mint tea and met his family. Hassan told us about what it was like to grow up and live in the Atlas Mountains, a fascinating and admirable lifestyle.
The Agafay Desert
If you want a desert experience but can’t quite fit in the 10 hour drive to the Sahara, the Agafay desert is a rocky alternative. Where we stayed made the experience for us. Les Roches Noires was the definition of “glamping” with the most beautiful tents, pool and views over the dunes. We also did a few hours of quad biking through the desert which was lots of fun. You really only need one night here, at most two. Also keep in mind the road in is pretty rough so get a good car if you’re driving there yourself (our car struggled).
Essaouira
Playing a pivotal role in connecting sub Saharan Africa with Europe and the Middle East, the coastal, laid back city of Essaouira was a real highlight. The Medina is a blue and white, less intense and more sandy version of the Marrakech Medina and there is a real focus on arts and woodcraft. If you are driving to Essaouira from Marrakech, stop at Akal Ferme en Permaculture for lunch, call ahead to let them know you’re coming. The food is sooo good and you sit in the garden under peppercorn and fig tree, the chef popping outside to grab herbs as you eat.
2-3 nights in Essaouira is perfect to relax and this is how I suggest you spend your time here:
Stay at Riad Baladin - loved it here. There is a nice rooftop to eat breakfast and relax and the rooms are beautiful!
Day 1
Have breakfast on the rooftop at Riad Baladin (if staying there). Spend the morning wandering through the Medina, poking your head into small galleries, handcraft stores, interior stores, ceramic chops, herberies, stopping for coffee at L’Esprit. All the best shops are in the laneways just off the side of the main busy streets. Head to the fishing port for lunch. Buy some prawns and fish from one of the market stalls (ask them to fillet it for you). Take it to the end of the port to Marssa Grillade when two men with a charcoal bbq will grill it for you. For an afternoon snack, stop by the sfenj stall (Moroccan donuts), grab one and sit at the tiled tea store across the street to enjoy. Have a sunset drink at Taro on the rooftop and head to dinner at Triskala - a beautiful candlelit restaurant.
Day 2
Drive/get a taxi 20mins to the oasis that is Jardin des Dours - a stunning hotel and spend the day next to the pool here with a day pass. A great way to experience luxury without spending loads.
Sit on the city wall overlooking the ocean for sunset and then have dinner at La Famille - sister restaurant to the one in Marrakech. Female run, beautiful interiors and moreish vegetarian food.
Day 3 (half)
Go for a walk along the beach in the morning, then for breakfast go to Msemen and for a Moroccan breakfast crepe with amlou (an almond butter with argon oil and honey) and mint tea to start your day.
Lunch at Mimti - definitely make it here for lunch, it was a highlight meal in Morocco. They make the most delicious focaccia and source everything from their farm just outside of Essaouira.
To sum up, our 10 day itinerary was: 4 nights Marrakech, 1 night Agafay desert, 2 nights Atlas Mountains, 3 nights Essaouira. If you don’t have 10 days, I would recommend 2-3 nights in Marrakech then choosing 1-2 of the above places to add on depending on your preference! Spring in Morocco was perfect, sunny warm days and cool nights. March/April/May or the other side of Summer in September/October are the best times to go.
Since being back I’ve been adding fresh mint to hot water and drinking from the glasses I brought back, almost like I am still sitting on a sunny rooftop over the Medina.
Thank you Morocco - I’ll be back! Now back to reality…
Fabulous intrepid travels
Love !!! Your most comprehensive yet. Keep em coming.