A Costa Brava guide
Spain you've done it again!
I’ll admit it - this newsletter is over-indexing on Spain and France, and for that I am sorry (but not really… how could it not?).
If you’d asked me what my favourite country in Europe was two years ago, before I moved to London, I would have said Italy without a beat. But now, it’s honestly neck and neck between Spain and France. In both, the north and south have distinctly different characters, despite a shared emphasis on food as a way of life - or even a ‘religion’ - one I have deep faith in.
In the north of Spain, food centers around hearty, rich plates of grilled, fatty meats and legumes, paired with dry cider or sparkling wine. In the south, it’s all about lighter plates of fresh seafood and vegetables, alongside fruity, sweeter drinks like vermouth and sangria. Deeelish.
For this newsletter, we’re staying in the south - in the Costa Brava region.
Costa Brava, meaning “Wild Coast,” stretches the Catalonian coastline. Dotted with the most beautiful coastal coves and villages, there is much to see and explore. I spent 4 days here last September and can’t wait to tell you all about it. But first, I must make a few things clear:
Easy to get to? Not really
Need a car? Yes
Can do in just a weekend? Not really
I think these reasons make Costa Brava a hidden gem but are also worth noting if you do end up planning a trip here.
Options for where to stay depending on what you’re looking for
Calella de palafrugell - the sweetest beach town (where to stay if you’re only visiting for a few days (under 2hr from Barcelona airport)
Cadaques - If you have a bit longer, Cadaques is a stunning old town 2-3hrs from Barcelona airport. It’s slightly bigger than the town above and has a bit more going on. If you do pick here to stay, I would recommend stopping off for a swim and lunch in Calella de Palafrugell on the way to break up the drive.
Other stops along the way:
Sa tuna - stunning beach cove perfect for a day trip, dip & lunch
El Goflet - another beach cove for a dip
Vermuteria El Sali at Płatja de Tamariu - spot for vermouth or a cold beer with some salty snacks after a dip
Where to eat and what to do in Calella de palafrugell
Margarita -A small restaurant right on the Palafrugell beach promenade with a seasonal, modern Mediterranean menu
La blava - for a paella with a view (pictured below)
Sol i Mar Calella - for a seafood lunch
Tragamar - a great dinner or lunch option
Grab a gelato and do this coastal path walk - Cami de Ronda de Caella a Llafranc
Where to eat and what to do in Cadaques
Far de Cala Nans - stunning lighthouse hike. For those who geo cash - there is a one located right at the end next to the lighthouse - this entertained my parents for an hour (you’re welcome)
Talla & Batalla - both restaurants are by the same people. Incredible food.
Restaurant Es Baluard - classic cadaques restaurant set in a beautiful old building (try and get the window seat)
Restaurant Casa Nun - cute little dinner option
Set Cadaques - for coffee and breakfast but also a drink
La Sal Es Xiringuito Ses Oliveres - delightful spot for lunch about a 10 minute walk around the cove from Cadaques centre
Bar Casino - must for aperitivo hour. If you’re ever going to try vermouth, try it here
Salvidor Dali Museum - a must do if you’re in cadaques - an insight into the wild and wacky creative mind of Salvidor Dali through his residence
El Xiri d’en Dani - for lunch after visiting Salvidor Dali Museum
Restaurant Cap de Creus - a half day activity where you hike for a few hours up to the top to then enjoy lunch with an incredible view
And that’s a wrap on Costa Brava - let me know if you go!
So good!!